Saturday, 28 January 2012

Burda 7808 - Summer Dress Nirvana

An outside front view .

I have finished Burda 7808 and I am  pleased with the results . It did meet my expectations of a `perfect` summer dress - good coverage, touching my body in minimal areas but doesn`t look like a sack ( in my opinion anyway ) . The mystery fabric I used is soft and drapey , a very  pretty  green colour  and feels very smooth. It does wrinkle fairly easily but irons beautifully . I would highly recommend this pattern for others to try for a cool summer dress. The pattern comes together easily especially as I was able to eliminate the side zipper ( anything to make life simpler!) The dress is easy to get into and out without calling for the fire brigade  . The front and back inserts were a little tricky to get really nice corners so this pattern would not be suitable for an absolute beginner. However the insert is what makes this dress - they are shaped so the dress is not too baggy on the top . I think the yoke would be nice in lace or a contrast fabric or even velvet for a winter version. The other odd thing about these inserts are the neck line does not reach your belly button ( the usual burda designers must have been on strike or sedated or something ! )I have added lace and buttons for this version. At the bottom of the front yoke there is some slight gathering so the bottom of the dress is loose and floaty providing a bit of circulation for air .
Anyway not too bad for a free dress! 
Cheers until next time. Janine

Back Insert  showing princess seamed shaping.

Front Insert  with lace and buttons.

An inside back view !

Thursday, 26 January 2012

Burda 7808- Bias Bound Armholes.

 I am making good progress on my Burda 7808 summer dress especially helped along by a holiday today - yay for Australia Day. I am making the sleeveless version which uses bias binding instead of those awkward facings other patterns use . I use the Kwik Sew method of applying bias binding which has an extra step which I think really makes this application  more professional  .

I used 4cm wide bias binding - ironed out flat and then folded in half right sides together  and then ironed again. The bias binding is placed right sides together on the armhole edge and sewn using a one cm seam.

This seam is then trimmed and the curves clipped.

This is the extra step which I thinks makes the extra difference . The bias binding is then understitched just like you would with a facing .
This is what the resulting understitched bias binding looks like. It is then folded under and stitched. The understitching allows the bias binding to be folded neatly and closely under the armhole edge. 

The bias binding is then stitched again from the inside  so on the inside of the garment there are two rows of stitching but only one row of stitching is visible on the outside and it looks very neat and RTW.

I wish the rest of my inner dress workings looked as nice as this but at least my bias bound armholes look good thankyou very much. Have a Happy Australia Day. Cheers Janine.

Monday, 16 January 2012

Giveaway Winner and In Search of the Perfect Summer Dress.

Congratulations to Jacqueline Njeri of Kenya ! I am sending your pattern this week with another surprise - I  hope it doesn`t take too long to get there.

Bay of Fires . East coast Tasmania.

Wineglass Bay , Freycinet National Park, Tasmania.

Last week my family and I went to Tasmania for a holiday - we went to Hobart for 2 days and then Bicheno on the East Coast  for the remainder of the week. We went to Freycinet National Park and walked to Wineglass Bay and also visited the Bay of Fires. The scenery was stunning and I can see why the beaches have been named amongst the top 10 by various travel magazines. But gosh it was cold - It is the middle of summer and the temps were as low as 16 degrees celsius ( 62 F) .

Now typical of summer here,  today is 35 degrees celsius ( 96 F )  which leads me on to my next project. The what I call a Hot and Stinky Dress for those hot stinky days. I have been trying to sew a perfect dress for these days for years - one that provides coverage but  touches your body in minimal places  and doesn`t look like a sack.

I have hopes for Burda 7808 since the reviews I have seen on Pattern Review and on blogs have been favourable. I am using a mystery fabric of mystery content of mystery vintage  gifted to me from my ex neighbour Stephanie  who also gave me the pattern! The  material is a  pale green with an  apricot and taupe abstract design suggesting florals and old buildings arches . The material feels very soft and is quite drapey so I think it will be good for a summer dress.I hope it doesn`t take too long as we are in for more hot days now.
Finally my blog was also deleted in mysterious circumstances but the situation was easily and very quickly rectified. I am totally baffled as to why this occurred but happy that the problem is fixed. I know this has occurred to other blogs too - Handmade by Carolyn and Kadiddlehopper- so beware but be assured that if  the situation  happens to you your blog can easily be reinstated.
Cheers Janine.

Friday, 6 January 2012

Women`s Cowboy Shirt Pattern Giveaway.

In my last post I rambled on about sewing Simplicity 9877-another cowboy shirt pattern  .
I now prefer this shirt to the above Butterick pattern but only because it has more ease.
So I am offering to give this away to anyone and I will pay for the postage for anywhere in the world.You do not have to be a follower or anything else like that.
This pattern has been used once - cut out to size 12 . It starts at size 8.
All the instructions and pattern pieces are intact but I have scribbled some notes on the envelope front and back. It is a basic shirt pattern with 2 piece collar, separate front band and cuffs. I found it to be very slim fitting .
If you want this pattern then add a comment with some kind of contact details - like your email or blog . If more than one person wants this,  then I will draw a name out. If no-one wants this then I will take it to the op shop to donate.
Cheers Janine.

Simplicity 9877 or The Zombies Ate My Brains.

I included a shot of the clothes line in honour of Mary Nana ( sorry no rubbish bins though )

How else can I explain the fact that I made another bandaid top or shirt to be precise.
My youngest DDs  play a computer game called Plants vs Zombies - they have installed it on my computer and therefore I get to watch it sometimes while I wait to get back my rightful property.
It looked fun so I played it as well but I am not as good as them and therefore on several occasions the zombies have eaten my brains ( my girls if they are losing just click out of the game and start again - wimps -whereas I allow the zombies to eat my brains - it doesn`t hurt at all ).

The real reason I sewed this shirt is procrastination .I pulled this beige ribbed cotton out of my stash to sew a dress muslin before I cut into my lovely Liberty lawn . The muslin needs two alterations - a sway back adjustment and for me to get rid of some of my christmas, birthday, New Years eating binges that has settled in comfortably  on my lower abdomen .

Instead of putting the remnants of this fabric back I decided to sew it all up - it has been in my stash for about 16 years - I have no idea how it got into my cupboard and it has only survived stash culls because it is a decent quality fabric. I find it hard to get rid of such serviceable fabric even when obviously ugly or boring or whatever. I had never had any idea what I was going to do with the  fabric which is why it has been around for so long but then had the idea to use it to practice flat felled seams inspired by the lovely Carolyn of Handmade by Carolyn.

I sewed Simplicity 9877 an OOP pattern dated 2001. It is a basic button blouse with cowboy shirt variations . I have another similar pattern but from Butterick. ( In fact I counted up that I had 13 patterns for variations of button blouses !)
I am very proud of my flat felled seams although not perfect . I did these seams everywhere - shoulders, sleeves, sideseams . They were tricky on the long sleeve seams and also at the armscye  but just really needed some slow and careful pinning and  sewing . These seams look very professional and I am definitely going to be incorporating these seams into future shirts .
I really like the fit of this shirt - it is not too baggy and not too tight - it is just right ! The front darts are really long slits sewn together - easier than marking and sewing darts . It also has back darts but I eliminated these since this will just be a around the house shirt. There are no bust darts included.   It has a separate pattern  for the front band but the collar is only one piece- it  doesn`t have a separate stand . There are cuffs with a continuous bound placket. The hem is curved . Just a basic tailored shirt really.
All in all I enjoyed experimenting with a new pattern and a new technique with this less than stellar fabric. I am sure that the dog and the garden and dishes and housework will not mind my beige boring button bandaid shirt.
I am happy to report that my next project will NOT be a bandaid top .
Cheers Janine.