Burdastyle 04/2019 -Belt Bag Skirt .

I super love this issue of Burdastyle . There are so many designs I would love to make eventually.  But I got a quick start on the magazine by sewing up the skirt with the cute little belt bag pocket thing .
I used some really old striped twill which was leftover from a pants making saga ( more on that later ) . The fabric is at least 14 years old and I wonder if it just old enough to look dated , or old enough to look vintage or if I am ahead of a new stripey phase. Whatever,  it is 100% cotton, feels great and the colours in the stripes are quite lovely with pale blue, coral , soft browns and beige . And it was perfect for this pattern as the fabric was  narrow but long  and this skirt uses several  narrower pieces - two skirt fronts , backs and sides.
The skirt was fun and  not difficult to make but there are a lot of steps with the  zipped skirt , the belt , the loops and the pocket .  I made a couple of changes to the pattern. I  lengthened the button tab on the pocket bag to extend all the way to the top , just a look I prefer to the original and lengthened the overall skirt a few cms to stop at my knee . As per usual with Burda the fit was spot on for me.
As mentioned the fabric was left over from making some pants. Arguably pants are the  hardest garments to fit and I had basic issues from the start . It didn`t help that I was using a Patrones magazine in Spanish . I have now found with Patrones that it is hit and miss for me .  This is the pattern I used below.

Pants with two pleats at the waist , side zip , moderately loose fitting and tapering to the ankles.
The first version the legs fit great but I couldn`t get anywhere near to closing the pants at the waist . I went to the largest size and the waist fit but the legs were very loose. I then cut out my main fabric and took the leg seams especially around the thighs in .Of note I use size 44-48 for Patrones and size 38-40 for Burda , the sizing numbers are very different.  The pants are comfortable but not a success. I showed my family and asked if they were too baggy. My husband replied ` What for pajama pants ? ` !! My daughter was obviously diplomatic. I will wear the pants but not beyond the perimeter of my home.

Classic Skirts with Classic Mistakes .

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More catching upwith . I made this skirt a couple of months ago using this Burdastyle skirt from September 2012. I have made it once before using a denim look wool. This time I used what is arguably my best fabric I own , a cashmere / merino blend fine woven wool which has been in my stash for 8 years.  I had been contemplating how much longer I will actually work for and well I am in the home run part of my career . 5 years ? 10 years ? I am unsure. What I was sure about is this fabric is not something I would use in an everyday garment but would be perfect for my work . So I thought I better sew it up .

 Such a fine fabric deserves to be made into something that will be used in the long run and this classic A line skirt with a single deep inverted pleat is perfect .It is easy to sew but what I forgot from making this skirt before is that I added several cms to the length of the skirt when cutting out . So this version is a bit short for my liking ! Oops !

 If I wear the skirt with dark stockings I feel OK but I feel as if I have to keep pulling my skirt down.
On the plus side I only used less than half of the fabric so I will be able to make another slightly longer skirt next time . In the meantime I have worn this skirt a few times this winter so all was not lost.

I also made another classic skirt but instead of making it too short , I made it too big.  You see I used a Polish Anna Moda magazine pattern and I assumed that like most other European magazine patterns I had to add in the seam allowances . Not so ! They are included . The magazine is great with lots of good Simplicity and New Look patterns.

I made what is the equivalent of Simplicity 8175 , a very popular straight skirt with a front slit and curved waist band and slant  front pockets. I used some navy crepe with a slight stretch to it , left over from some Burdastyle pants I made last year . I did try on the skirt while I was making it and took in the side seams but the too large curved waist band and pocket openings could not be fixed . There are no photos , it just didn`t look good.  Such a pity . I used some lovely silk to line the waist band and pockets and invisibly hand stitched the hems. Writing up this blog post was the stimulus to donate the skirt so I hope someone gets to enjoy it. I will definitely be making this skirt again using some more navy crepe I have .

Only a 50% success rate but at least I used a ` precious ` fabric .

Plethora of Pale Blue

Patrones Top. 

Simplicity 8601

 Moving on with my catch up blog posts I made three ,yes three pale blue tops all from magazines my daughter bought me from Europe. I also managed to use fabric which I have stored for a long long time ( between 9- 14 years ! )
The two tops pictured above were made in response to my first semi failed one . I don`t have pictures of that top but I will show the pattern involved.

My semi-failed top was made from a Polish Diana Moden magazine . It is a  knit top with a frilly V neck . The pattern included darts which I was a bit surprised about being a knit but I went with it  anyway. I should have trusted my instincts because the darts were way too low for me and it just looked wrong. Luckily however it suited my mother`s shape better so she now has it . I used a fine ribbed pale blue knit which Mum gave me anyway .  Apart from the darts I was impressed with the pattern. The sleeves fit in the armscye perfectly and the amount of ease in the body was just right. I had no idea how to really sew the plain back neck collar to frilled front section so I just kind of fudged that bit and it looked a bit messy but Mum didn`t  care.



The first pale  blue top pictured  was sewn  from a Polish version of Patrones  .  I have  made four Patrones patterns now and two have been good and two have taken a bit of work to get something wearable.  This top in the former good category . It is  a very simple pullover top with a back neck slit  and cuffed sleeves. The pattern is based on an actual RTW clothing company Triana by C  that I assume is Spanish .

Back of Patrones top . 

 The back slit opening was finished off with a tab with a button hole . I find loops to be flimsy to use and tricky to make . This idea was inspired by pinterest .

The front tie knot top is from the  German Meine Nahmode magazine which is a compilation of Simplicity and New Look patterns - I counted 14 different patterns ,which in Australia would be at least $75 dollars worth if the patterns were on super sale. ( I write down the pattern numbers on the magazine so I can check the reviews easier ) The knot top seems to be a very popular pattern. I lengthened the front pattern pieces which form the tie knot because I noticed in many reviews the tie was very short  . I also had some trouble easing the sleeves in and so I have some little puckers which I could not entirely eliminate . Despite this I really like it . I rarely tuck in tops these days so any blouse which is designed to be worn outside of pants etc  is a winner for me.
I`m really impressed and jealous with how many sewing magazines are published in Europe . Australia used to have Australian Stitches but that never included sewing patterns . There are some Australian crafty magazines around but absolutely no garment ones that I am aware of.
Anyway my daughter could not have bought me better souvenirs than this and she knows how much I appreciate them !

Vogue 1309 Issey Miyake Twisty Turny Top Modelled !

As requested super glam modelled shots of my top . I even brushed my hair ( well I thought I had ) , put on lippy ( can you tell ?? ) and wore matching earrings ( at least that bit was OK ! ) .
This is my second Issey Miyake Pattern I`ve made and I have been impressed both times by the design details. I have one more of his patterns in my collection and I`m keen to try it out.

Tops - from Burda Easy to Advanced Vogue Designer .

 My next post is about two tops I made from the completely  different end of the spectrum.
First up Vogue 1309 an Issey Miyake pattern from 2012  which is classified advanced . This is the first time I have ever sewn an advanced pattern . I had read the reviews prior to making  this and to say I was intimidated is an understatement.  I got there in the end but it was not all smooth sailing.

Vogue 1309 front . 

  I used fabric from my neighbour ( who I mentioned in my  last post and showed pictures of  her latest kind donations ) . The pictures do not show up the richness of the colours in this fabric but if you think of magnificent peacock hues then that would come close. I am pretty sure this fabric dates from the 90s being a shiny polyester but I love the abstract pattern and colours and I am happy with how it suited this pattern.

vogue 1309  back . 

 This pattern is incredibly clever and it starts with just three rectangles ( and bias binding ) so you think how can this be advanced as the cutting out is the easiest thing ever . Then you cut a slash down the centre of the largest rectangle and then the fun begins . Well it was fun to begin with as I thought I was doing OK . But as I got to the end I thought I have mucked up somewhere as nothing was making sense.

vogue left side with zip 

  I must have twisted one of the shoulders around so I unpicked a couple of seams and luckily was able to untwist the whole mess . Then it  all made sense and I was able  to finish the top. At one point I was feeling quite the failure that I could not get it right and was lamenting the potential loss of a lovely fabric .

Vogue 1309 right side

As everyone else has said in their reviews it is absolutely essential to carefully mark all the circles and squares on the pattern . I used coloured numbered dots and even wrote the colours and numbers on a separate piece of paper to keep track of it all and this helped me.
I did not use bias binding as recommended on the pattern to the inner slash but over locked it and I also over locked all the outer edges of the rectangles . On the pattern the outer rectangles are left unfinished and I don`t know of too many wovens that would not fray in time .

When I finished the top I noticed that it felt quite tight on the left side but the right shoulder strap area was loose and in danger of falling down and revealing more than I would like. So I unpicked along the left side of the top with the long middle sized rectangle until it felt comfortable and added in a wedge of fabric here. On the right shoulder I tacked it down to the underlying fabric so hopefully I won`t do any inadvertent public flashing.  There were also places where the overlocking stitch could be seen externally so I made narrow hems on the machine there. The pattern recommends an open ended zip but since I didn`t have one of those that matched I just used a regular zip and there were no issues in doing so .

I am glad I made this pattern successfully ( eventually ) . It really is like the sewing version of Twister and you need your wits about you and your eyes by the way  ( the lettered circles and squares are small and faint ). I look forward to wearing this on an evening out.

 So top two . The just about easiest ever T shirt made from Burda Easy January 2018 edition which is also my first ever Burda Easy project . My daughter bought me the magazine when she was in Europe and this version is in Polish . I know absolutely no Polish although my paternal grandmother`s family immigrated to Australia in the 1830s from Prussia ( which is where Poland now is ) as a useless aside for anyone to know.

 

 The front is a slight scoop and the back is V shaped but it is not a deep V so it can be worn with the V in front as a bonus. I used a white ribbed cotton interlock with a small mauve floral but since I see this as nightwear fabric this top is relegated for PJs only  . This is a really useful little pattern and and  I will make it again .Burda Easy is unlike the usual Burda Style magazine. There are not so  many styles  in each edition but the patterns are printed separated on tissue paper like your usual envelope patterns so need to go cross eyed tracing tangled messes of lines. There are  also clear step by step construction diagrams .

 I am happy with the end result of both projects. Next up more tops !

Catch Up !

I have considered getting back to the old blog for quite a while . I started an instagram account but recently a non sewing friend ` found ` and followed me . For some reason I feel a bit embarrassed by that and very self conscious since my posts  basically revolve around sewing and nothing really interesting or amazing ( including the sewing ! )Instagram is easier and I get more ` likes ` but it is limited in what you can write . Also at times Instagram can feel a bit hostile which is  something I haven`t noticed with blogs .  I have realised that sewing and documenting the sewing is my relaxation and safe place so back to the blog where I have real life sewing friends but since they are sewing friends I don`t feel so embarrassed or self conscious .

So for 2019 my sewing has focused on making at least one pattern from all the sewing magazines my daughter bought me from her travels and trying to make up the patterns I have bought from  Spotlight .
I have also been ever determined to sew my stash and not add to it !  To this end I have been fairly successful . I have used all the magazines and now working on the envelope patterns.
And can you believe I have not bought one piece of fabric this year , not even a little scrap ! My ex neighbour did give me a few lovely pieces at the beginning of the year . She has stopped sewing garments completely now and I wasn`t going to say no . She has given quite a bit in the past too and I have sewn up some of this including my last two projects which I will eventually get around to blogging about .
This is what I was given from left to right.  A soft ivory jacquard , an embroidered teal cotton , liberty lawn and stone linen  ranging from 2-3 metres in length . There was also some patchwork cotton . All really lovely and special to me so I will need to think carefully about what these eventually get sewn into.

 



Now onto my first sewing project which was very practical and satisfying in terms of function and stash busting. A lined hat . I made this back in January when it was very hot and humid.  I used all scraps that I have held onto forever . The star twill was leftover from shorts I made my daughter in October 2012 . The lining was stamped in gold Made in Japan and who knows where that was from .

The pattern came from a sewing magazine that I believe is Japanese but published in French. The patterns are fairly basic and include hats and bags and even an umbrella as well as clothes . There are quite a lot of designs as well . I think I will get around to making something else from here sometime but in the meantime there are plenty of other patterns ahead of the queue. I like that the instructions include very detailed drawings so no French is needed  ( also helps that the patterns as mentioned are simple ) .

So that`s it for now.  I will try to catch up as quickly as possible all my other sewing projects . The hardest thing about blogging for me is getting photos of the clothes on me so for now they will be dress form photos unless I happen to get lucky with a photographer or I am bothered setting up a tripod and timer  .
My last photo has to be of my beautiful little boy Toby . He died just over a month ago and I am still
beyond sad and missing him terribly . He was the best little companion I could ever want.

2018 -The Final Analysis.

Another year done and dusted.
In 2018 I sewed ( and blogged ) a bit less than previous years but I am finishing on a high . Over the Christmas and New Years period I managed to wangle 10 days off altogether which meant I finished two projects ( and a book too ) - a slippery , frustrating silk satin blouse and a coffee table runner ( my one and only  UFO from 12 months ago - yay ) .

I made a total of 38 items for myself ( and three for my daughters) . These consist of
Tops / Shirts - 10
Cardigans/ vests etc - 5
Pants - 2
Dresses - 4
Skirts - 2
Nightwear - 4
Underwear
 Camisoles - 3
 Underpants - 7
Handbags - 1

My most successful item was my navy Burda pants . Navy work pants are a staple for me as I tend to wear mainly separates and they match with most of my tops . The pants were comfortable to wear and easy to care for and I am happy to report the fabric is holding up well so far.

My favourite piece I made though was my silk top . The fabric is so pretty and feels lovely to wear . Honestly the photos do not do justice to the colours and as well does not show up the floral jacquard weave.

But I also loved my liberty shirt , ditsy navy shirt and comfy dresses I sewed up.

I made four things which were failures for various reasons.

My Burda jumper - fabric looks great but was terrible to sew . The pattern  from Burda WOF August 1993 is good though and when I find more appropriate knit I will try it again.

My Burda Jacket  ( from June 2012 ) - this is too short for my liking . The fabric was just scraps but I did  buy the zip especially for this project which meant a trip to Spotlight 50 minutes away so more of a time loss than fabric and money .

My Vogue handbag - too small to be useful and I did not like the way the lining and top of the bag were constructed. I love the fabric I used in this and  luckily I still have some more to have another  go at making another handbag. A disappointment for sure and I admit I expect better from Vogue and especially a designer pattern . The pattern is Vogue 8407 , a Marcy Tilton design. I have just realised I did not blog this project.
This pattern could work if I enlarged the pattern and changed how it is made - perhaps something for the future ??

My Anne Klein Vogue Blouse  ( vogue 1294 )  . I loved the sewing process of making my blouse but did not like the end result. The fabric is a wrinkly rayon so ironing the flounce was a PITA . Also I just prefer simpler clothes so this blouse was donated to the op shop.














Overall I spent only just over $222 on my sewing projects. My most expensive piece was  the Style Arc Blakeley jeans at $39.95. Since I am given fabric and use scraps and re-use patterns and salvage zips and buttons often my clothes cost nothing to very little  but my time to make. I find that incredibly satisfying and it also means if I accidently wreck my clothes it doesn`t really matter .
Apart from sewing I purchased 8 items of clothing ( all from the op shop ) which were mainly cardigans and pants . I don`t buy many clothes  but enough that I can never participate in the RTW fast .

Over the years I have been trying to slowly decrease the size of my wardrobe and this year 11 less items came in than went out which is a consistent pattern over the last few years . I can not throw away clothing purely to satisfy a decluttering bug - they need to be stained or holey or not right to go out.
Another goal has been to use my fabric stash and try not to buy much and I succeeded in having 10 metres less than the beginning of the year . Reducing my wardrobe and my stash are slow , longer term projects and this and continuing to use my unused patterns will continue on into 2019.

Happy New Year to all .