Burda 7372 - A Spotty Dotty Circle Dress.

Bonjour!  This is the second of my projects for my middle DD using some cotton voile from Spotlight ( actually quite alot of cotton voile - four metres !) . The dress has quite a slim fitting bodice which merges into a large waist and a  circle skirt  . It is has a small mandarin collar, decorative only pocket flaps, inseam pockets  and bias bound armholes.  I used size 12 which is for a bust of 93 cm and the finished garment is only 97 cm so you can see there is not much ease at that particular point. However the waist is huge and shaping is provided by elastic .

This pattern uses four metres or 4 3/8 yards of fabric because of the skirt portion which is  a gathered  circle skirt . If you sew this, take my advice and cut out the skirt portions first - I didn`t and almost didn`t have enough fabric . In the end my daughter wanted me to shorten the skirt by about 13 cms so I went through all that angst for nothing . The  other changes were that  I cut out two yokes so it could be lined. I realise that my old cotton shirts always fade first at my upper back which led to a  totally useless thought that perhaps that is the purpose of  lined yokes .
Also I eliminated the outer fabric  casing where  elastic joined  to a narrow  fabric tie is threaded . Instead I made a channel in the waist / bodice seam and inserted elastic in there before sewing on the front bands. My daughter didn`t want the fabric ties but instead will wear this with a belt .

 A close up of the bodice, flaps, lined yoke and bias bound  armholes.

So now my daughter can be all swirly and girly in her spotty dotty dress but unfortunately she just won`t do that for this blog !

Now I admit I am excited . You see I have not sewn anything pour moi in two months - I am going through serious selfish  sewing DTs so once I finish up some PJ pants for my eldest DD I will get going with a skirt which is just a little bit different to the usual. My middle DD also wanted me to sew her a skirt but I think I will just keep quiet for now and not remind her about that ;) .

Cheers Janine.

Kwik Sew 3854- Sailor Star Shorts

As I sit here safe and snug in my home I admit it doesn`t feel right to be writing something as trivial as a sewing post so I am sending all my wishes to those who are being affected by Hurricane Sandy that all will be safe but according to the live new reports it is certainly going to be a terrible event.

My middle daughter did not want to buy any new clothes this summer instead she wanted me to sew her a pair of shorts and a dress and I can now tick one off the list.
She wanted a vintage feel to her shorts and something a bit different. After a marathon trip to Spotlight and searching literally every pattern catalogue she chose Kwik Sew 3854  and navy blue twill printed with white stars .

Trying to live by my motto of RRR - Reduce, Recycle and Reuse we went through my stash and she found a remnant of soft cotton - maroon /navy houndstooth and six gold buttons from a previous 90s project ( when gold buttons were all the rage ).
I thought I was so clever to be able to cut out the side and back waist band pieces and pocket pieces as she wanted from the remnant . I thought I had been careful in tracing out all the pattern pieces but  it  seems my skills in counting are as good as my talents in trying to persuade my middle DD to model the shorts. I had not cut out the main pocket piece that is on show and I did not have enough fabric left to cut them. My daughter looked crestfallen and wanted me to start all over again. Luckily I had just enough fabric to cut bias strips to sew along the pocket opening edge  and she was happy with that - phew - I admit I can be a bit lazy in some ways.

The shorts open by the flap in the front unlike your usual pants.

As per usual the Kwik Sew instructions were excellent = clear and concise with good diagrams. They clearly explain about understitching and the correct procedure for trimming seams. The only things I did differently were to sew the side seams last to get in an extra fitting opportunity and finished the waist bands with some satin bias binding. I also managed to sew up the gap at the front flap/ inner pockets more than suggested because my daughter could easily get the shorts on .

Another inner shot .

Overall these are a cute pair of shorts and I would recommend this pattern . Another bonus is they don`t take much fabric at all so they were alot cheaper than buying any RTW pair. At the end of the day my daughter is happy she got the unique pair she wanted. Now hopefully she will like the dress to come.  Stay Safe . Cheers Janine.

A Touch of Lace Top - Burda WOF 04/05- 106.

I have been loving the lace trend and in the past have had some lace shirts/tops which I  adored  but are long gone. I was going to buy some lace but then remembered that I had a small remnant left over from a lined lace dress my oldest daughter sewed about 3 years ago - sometimes  my stash surprises even me . I also love white shirts - they are my most used and practical garments but I like them to be a little different and interesting rather than just plain. So enter .......

This Burda model looks so self assured, relaxed and chic - of course I want to sew this.

Burda WOF - Pattern 106 from April 2005 - one I have been wanting to make since well 2005 . It is a dropped shoulder almost kimono looking top with a waist band  . I used a scrap of white soft poly to interline the lace pieces . The main part of the top was cut from a fabric which looks like a light weight silk dupioni  . The top was easy to construct but I did not completely follow the instructions because they made the sewing the top harder than it should be . I only sewed up the side seams once I had completely constructed the top and then added the waist band.

 

The lace panel continues around the back and I added lace to the arm bands.

Overall this is a terrific little pattern - really great for using small pieces of scrap  fabric and the main part of the top took only 70cm  . I am thinking of trying this pattern again using some scraps of satin and experimenting with colour blocking but who know when that will happen - probably when that trend has totally passed and looks out of place :).

But for now my middle DD has announced that she does want to buy any new summer clothes but wants to me to sew her a pair of shorts and a dress - patterns and fabric have been chosen after a marathon 2 hour trip to Spotlight - I am sure this will keep me out of trouble for a while.

Cheers Janine.

Simplicity 5197 - Embellished Tunic.

 I  have been sewing in dribs and drabs and finished up this tunic a couple of weeks ago. I have managed to wear this a few times now even though my sewing is topsy turvy - sewing a winter tunic when the weather is definitely warming up - blame it on hormones or whatever good excuse us females have.

Pattern - Simplicity 5197 - dated 2004 . A simple and plain tunic with side splits and sleeve, collar and neckline variations. I have used this once before just as is - using the V neck view with a collar and 3/4 sleeves with the split - no changes at all.
This time I wanted to be a little more ` creative` inspired by so many other bloggers .

Material - crinkled semi-sheer georgette - I love the rich rust coloured swirls on the black background .

I made several changes to the pattern - I reversed the front neck line facing so it is  on  the outside instead of inside and used a contrasting scrap of black satin. I then embellished this facing - hand stitched some narrow black ribbed trim to the outer edge and then using a simple cross stitch and machine embroidery thread stitched over the trim. I thought about adding another fancy stitch using bronze metallic thread but this seemed too much but it still wasn`t quite right so I added three bronzed looking buttons down the front. I also lengthened and flared the sleeves so they could be full length and elasticised. I used french seams everywhere including the sleeves. Talking about french seams on the sleeves - I googled this and alot  of the sites said it can`t be done. The other sites said it is really easy ! Well I had nothing to lose ( except lots of unpicking and narrower seams )  so I gave it a try and it all worked out fine .

Here is a close up the neck line - the satin looks a little puckered but I am loving this tunic so it just doesn`t matter.

I would highly recommend this pattern - it is a relaxed fit without being too voluminous and there are so many different design possibilities. It is also very simple to sew . I am sure I will be making this one again.

Happy Sewing , Cheers Janine.

Our Garden

I am excited to be moving in the next few months to a new house but I will miss my garden ( but not all the hard work ) . My garden is just starting to come to life with spring and I wanted to capture some memories so I can look back at all the plants and design that took some 16 years in the making .

A mish mash of bulbs - the upright bulbs came from my beloved Aunty Pearl`s garden and she has been gone for some 30 years .

Magnolias are amongst my favourite trees - I will definitely plant some in my new garden but it will take a long time before it looks like this. There is a self sown echium off to  the left. I also really love maples and viburnums. I love dogwoods too and planted a genuine Canadian Dogwood but our harsh Australian summers were just too much and it curled up its toes .Living on tank water I can not afford to water too many plants here - they have to be drought resistant and tough .

 

This is a part of my Japanese inspired garden. I have divided my garden into `rooms` - there is the native section, a woodland garden ( with small fairy statues hidden - I must try to find them before we leave ) , the japanese garden, a perennial section , herb garden, citrus area  and `secret` garden ( it has a pergola with a seat underneath - concealed by lots of climbers and shrubs and looks toward the valley and mountains to the south ) . The gardens all blend into each other.

 

This is a part of my perennial garden which is only just starting to bloom. I love the smell of wall flowers - like Johnsons Baby Powder and they must be the easiest plants to grow from cuttings. I also have lots of salvias , some lavenders , lilies , catmints, penstemons  and irises here. I tend to love pinks , purples and whites with small splashes of red and yellow .

 This is the herb garden - I have parsley, spring onions, pizza thyme ( I like the flavour  better than common thyme, ) varigated oregano, a spindly savory bush , curry plant , chives, garlic chives , a potted bay tree, a so called dwarf rosemary bush ( hah ! dwarf if you regularly prune it ! ) and a moroccan mint ( sweeter than common mint and not invasive at all ). There are sporadic cat mints as a border and self seeded feverfews and some decorative roses  ( although I have toyed with the idea of making rose petal jam ).

My Irises and the main rose garden ( and the good old washing line )  - the irises are starting to come out. Again irises are one of my favourite plants - they give so much for little return. I am torn about my roses - most of them I have obtained by cuttings or gifts . However everytime I go near them they spike me- should I take cuttings or do I just leave them. Off the side is a  part of the native garden - mainly indigenous natives but there a couple of ring- ins as well.

Well this is just a portion of my garden. I really bit off more than I could chew in making it .
Hope everyone is having a good day.
Cheers Janine.

Sewing Curved Pockets.

I have been sewing the dress  Burda 7808 which I sewed in January this year. I was very impressed with the comfort of this dress during really horrible hot days and wanted to have another one as one dress like this is not enough for our Australian summers ( although why I am sewing it now when the hot weather is a long way off I really do not know ! )

 I am sewing the version with a collar, contrast front inset and adding the pockets. The pockets are curved with some slight gathering at the top. The instructions say to fold over the seam allowance of the pocket and baste. This is not so easy when the pocket is curved. Years ago I read this so simple tip to help with sewing curved edges. I have simply sewn a large gathering stitch around the edges of the pocket within the seam allowance. The threads are pulled gently gathering the pockets. The gathers are then adjusted to form a nice curved pocket. When you are happy , pin in place and then give the pocket a good iron. So easy and simple. I do wish the pattern companies would add in these extra little steps to help us sew better .
Cheers Janine.

Butterick 4247 - A Green Handbag.

 I have been sewing a bag lately. My current handbag is on the way out - the straps are starting to break. 

I bought this pattern back in 2005 when I first had the bright idea to sew a bag. Better late than never I suppose.

                I used all fabrics from my stash  - this is printed linen that was in a large plastic tub of patchwork fabrics I bought last year for only $15.

The lining material was also included in the tub. I modified the pattern to include pockets in the lining and added a concealed zip flap at the top . I interfaced the bag with remnants of fleecy - the stuff that is fluffy on the inside and looks like knit on the outside. I was going to throw out the pieces because they are too small to sew any clothes with but I read about this tip to use it for interfacing bags and it is great. Really adds weight and thickness.

I finally managed to find a use for these charms  . The sewing charms I bought 20 +years ago and the tea charms on a holiday in 2006 . I found them irresistable but had no idea what I would do with them.

I used some very old and very  heavy metal buttons for the bag feet - I remember playing with these buttons from my Mum`s button jar when I was a little girl. ( Just to clarify - Mum gave me these I didn`t nick them !)

Pattern Review is having a handbag competition which was the push and the shove I needed to finally make a bag.
Cheers Janine.