Saturday, 5 November 2016
This beautiful burnout velvet was offered up at the sewing group I attend and as no-one else wanted it I snaffled it up as I had bought a kimono pattern earlier in the year and then realised I had no suitable fabric .
But then I had a closer look at the pattern and became unsure because I really love the fabric and did not want to muck up.
I do not sew muslins unless for very good fabrics or a special occasion outfit . If I was expected to sew a muslin for everything then I would just quit sewing . So it really is a testimony to how much I liked the fabric that I ended up making three muslins of different patterns.
From left to right is a Knipmode jacket from March 2014 , jacket pattern 110 from Burdastyle April 2016 and finally Simplicity 1588.
The Knipmode kimono jacket was too large and tending to look like a potential dressing gown , not the look I was going for . I sewed up the the size small kimono from the Simplicity pattern which corresponds to size 10-12 . I am usually a size 12 in Simplicity but the kimono was too small . Also it takes 3.00 metres ( 3 1/4 yards ) of material which I did not have .
The Burdastyle pattern was just right ( perhaps I should call this blog post Goldilocks and the Three Kimonos ) ! However I did make changes . The jacket comes with an extra flap in front and welt pockets which I eliminated . I added 10 cms in length as well but otherwise the slightly loose fit and dropped shoulder and wide sleeves were what I was imaging. The sleeves in the burda pattern are separate and not incorporated with the body pieces like the other patterns but I again I preferred this as there was no puckering under the arms .
I finished the front bands with some slightly contrasting silk and added the same width bands to the end of the sleeves ( another change ! ) . The jacket was very easy to sew .
Well I am very happy with final product and would highly recommend this pattern . In fact this particular issue of Burdastyle is really good . I have already cut out two patterns . Thank you so much Bruna for your gift. Now I just need somewhere to wear it !
PS Bruna , your husbands xmas present is done. I will bring the goods next visit 😜
Sunday, 10 April 2016
Two posts in one day ! I love this casual anorak pattern from Simplicity and then found this lovely hefty soft citrusy coloured linen in the op shop for only $5 - bargain. I thought it would be perfect match for my pattern and it was with caveats.
First of all finding an open ended zip to match was really hard - in the end I found a kind of matching one in a small packed to the rafters haberdashery shop near my Mum's house. However it was 10cm shorter than what was specified for the pattern. I thought about using buttons or adding a placket to conceal a non- matching zip. Then when I came to cut out the fabric I did not have enough ! The tag said there was 2 1/2 metres which is exactly what is needed for the anorak. On closer inspection the tag had 2.1 metres with the 1 crossed off and 2 written down so it looked like 2 1/2 metres. So I had to shorten the body pieces by 10cm which meant the zip was perfect .
Once all that palaver was through, making the jacket was easy. It is an unlined zip front jacket with 3 collar choices and either sleeveless or with sleeves. There are optional draw strings at the waist and hem and a couple of different pocket designs.
The jacket has enough room to wear over a jumper and is nicely shaped through the middle helped by the adjustable drawstrings .
I really enjoyed making this jacket as much as I like wearing it . The linen package also came with some coordinating plaid which is used extensively inside the jacket- the bias binding along the front facings, the drawstring channel , yoke lining , the hem facing ( to get the most of my jacket length ) and pocket linings.
Apart from having to shorten the jacket by 10 cms I added a yoke lining and added the totally non-functional lining / buttons to the functional pockets. I also shorted the sleeves by 2-3 cm but I think I might need to take off even more -they are quite long .
I found this cool idea on Pinterest to add a lining to the pocket and button up the top part of the pocket
My only complaint about this pattern are that the front facings seem to end in no-man`s land on the yoke so I would change that next time ( oh and the sleeves are quite long ) .
Overall I highly recommend this pattern - It is a great design that you can personalise in so many ways. There are definitely going to be more of these in my wardrobe - hopefully a winter version if I can find some appropriate fabric.
Happy Sewing Janine. Costings. Fabric - $5.00 op shop . Pattern - $16.00 . Notions - zip $2.50, thread - $3.25, cord and stops - $4.60 , buttons - stash . Total - $31.05.
Friday, 11 December 2015
.When my red merino cardigan finally got one too many holes in it for public viewing I was all set to buy another one. But then I remembered I had this red fabric in my cupboard for at least a few years from the op shop for only 20 cents ! It is lightweight and very slighty scratchy but still soft so it wasn't quite right for a shirt .I thought I would have a go at making a lightweight jacket and no big deal if it didn't work out. Nothing ventured, nothing gained.
I occasionally love to peruse my mother's pattern stash and she had a McCalls wardrobe pattern 4093 which she has had for yonks but never used. I liked the folded back lapels on the front and the split back seam which is a little different .
Because the fabric is lightweight my friend wisely suggested I should add a lining. I had to buy some lining from the local craft shop which has a very small selection of dress fabrics and luckily they had some closely matching chiffon. I chose to underline the fabric and did hongkong seams especially as they may be in view from the back. The body of the pattern fit quite well but the sleeves were massive. I did realise this when looking at the pattern but went ahead hoping some Harry Potter magic might occur when I was sewing ( a bit like sewing faster when you are running out if thread hoping that will get you through ! ) When I put the jacket on I thought I was in for a wadder but after taking in about 4 cms from each seam on the sleeves and removing about 10cms off the length it starting looking a bit more hopeful. I used two vintage buttons and my nickyknack loop turner.
I have since worn this jacket about three times ( I am behind on blogging as usual ) and I think it is passable - not great but OK for now. I just also want to pass on my thanks to Anne for all her great hints with the loop turner - ironing the seam open after sewing the loop and how to position the turner were great so Thanks Anne !
Happy Sewing everyone.
Saturday, 20 September 2014
|Apparently DH the photographer doesn`t think I need the top of my head.|
Finally finished my jacket and just in time to catch the last of the cold weather .
This plush soft red fine cord came from Clear It in February this year . I was lucky and got the last end bit. However this limited what pattern I could use. I debated a few patterns but finally chose Jacket 110 from Burda WOF dated October 2004 ! Almost up to date for me .
I loved all the flappy bits on this jacket - some useless - the R front flap , pocket flaps and some useful - the hidden zip placket and lower button tab . It also has pockets in the front princess seams.
I have never sewn a hidden zip placket before but once that was complete the rest of the construction was basic. I did not sew the cuffs ( I just lengthened the sleeves ) or add the shoulder tabs because I only had four of my lovely buttons recycled from a jacket I sewed in the 90s. Also I sewed this a size larger than usual because the jacket looked very slim fitting on the model and I want to wear this over cardigans and jumpers . The jacket feels about right for this but the shoulders were too long so I had to shorten them . The jacket , pockets and right front flap are lined in just a plain black lining .
|I love these buttons .|
I am right pleased with this jacket but glad its over . ( I tend to get a bit bored if projects go on too long )
Also I have almost finished reading a kindle book so I am in that exciting place where I get to choose all new projects- yay - Now I just need to ignore that large pile of mending glaring at me .
Happy Sewing Janine.
PS - I`ve been told by Bruna from sewing group that the front flap is actually to stick the end of a gun there so it doesn`t get wet or whatever . So still useless to me : )
Sunday, 10 July 2011
I am sooo happy to be finished. I started sewing this jacket in early June and I have had a feeling it just wasn`t meant to be. First of all I did a big oops on the collar but rectified this. Then after coming back from a one weeks holiday ( On a houseboat on the Murray River - highly recommended -very relaxing ) and having sewing withdrawals I launched into sewing the 2 piece arms but made 2 left arms - umm I only have one left arm - after hongkong finishing all those seams . ( With this material there are no wrong and right sides - it looks exactly same ) . Argghhh - I did a quick unpick which means one arm now has the ugly side of the hongkong finishing `showing`.
Then as I was binding the armholes I broke a needle - at that point when my middle DD came into my sewing room I blurted out `Do you want a blue jacket ?` and she said Yes ! Perhaps I can borrow it sometimes.
Anyway looking forward to my next ( much quicker ) project. Cheers Janine.
Tuesday, 7 June 2011
This royal blue crepe just keeps on going and going ! So far I have sewn a dress - Simplicity 2896 a sleeveless . yoked A line dress and also Kwik Sew 3287 a skirt with little flippy sides and now cut out the above jacket. And still I have a large chunk left !
This jacket patterns calls for 70cm of fabric for this kind of strange incomplete lining - I do not think I have seen a back lining like this . I managed to get all the 2 lining pieces out of a small scrap of polyester satin left over from some PJs ! Which just goes to show that those scraps which sometimes cause angst really are very useful ( even if it is many many years later ) .
I also completed my vogue Issey Miyake skirt but yet again there will not be a photo . I did not finish the waist , seams and hems as it really was only a quick and dirty muslin ( and boy was it a quick skirt pattern ) . I am happy to report that you definitely do not need to add a zipper to this knit skirt. I didnt really think this was the case but I did not want to question Vogue who undeniably have much more knowledge and experience in these matters. Also this skirt definitely reaches my ankles. I was questioning whether this look might be dated however while waiting for my daughter to have her braces removed ( yay !) I read a WHO magazine that had a fashion spread on long skirts ! It seemed like fate to read this magazine so soon after whipping up this skirt so I think I will try source some `real` fabric.
Wednesday, 25 May 2011
Phew ! Finally finished. I love this stage when one project is complete and then you have the delicious task of figuring out what is next. I am going to muslin the Butterick pants pattern with the bright twill .
I had trouble deciding what buttons to complete this jacket with - I finally chose these recycled gold/tarnished buttons that are quite pretty but perhaps speak too much of the 90s. I didn`t want to drive to a sewing supplies shop ( nearest one at least 15kms away ) and the other buttons I had although matching were just a tad too small and didn`t look right. Perhaps I will keep my eye out for more up to date buttons on my future outings.
I did enjoy sewing this jacket though. The Style pattern is dated 1984 and there were a few notable differences from the more modern day patterns. For a start the tissue paper of this pattern is more substantial and all the seam lines were printed on this . Also I feel the instructions were a bit better - they kept on referring to when you press your garment which I don`t recall seeing for a while. I think this would be good for beginners. I will try to get one of my helpers to take a photo of me wearing this( they are all at school ) . This jacket is fortunately not big and baggy with huge shoulders so hopefully I will get some wear out of this .
Off to cut out my next project - it is such a miserable day I am relieved of my guilt and obligations to garden - more about this soon .
Saturday, 14 May 2011
Monday, 18 April 2011
Just recently the health department of Australia wants to introduce plain packaged cigarettes - no logos at all on them - but with the gory pictures of all the terrible things cigarettes can do to you. They decided that the least desirable colour for the packaging was a dark olive green - hmmm - I `m not sure what this says about my choice of colour for this outfit but I know it suits my mother`s autumn colouring and she can add a pretty top to wear with this. The fabric was only $2.50 for 3.5 metres from the opshop and it does feel very soft.
The Butterick pattern is OOP - dated 2004 and this was easy to sew. I did like the slit in the back and the mandarin collar but again I`m not sure if this is something that a certain deceased asian communist leader might have worn. Oh well. I know my Mum will like this.
The skirt pattern is Kwik Sew 3364 and I love this pattern . I have had this in my collection for a few years and until late last year I had never used the pattern - this is now the second time with the third one cut out ! I have now made this skirt in a bright summery stretch cotton, the above light weight green and the new one is cut out of a light weight grey wool blend. I really do recommend this pattern.
Well I am glad this is finished in time and now I am off to sew a little bit more of my next skirt.